Fearless Serger Sewing

With a few simple lessons, you can "fear serging less!" You don’t have to give up creativity. With a serger, you can become more creative.

When I began my serger experience in 1988, I was determined to learn the machine. I was fascinated with how the loopers worked in tandem with each other and how the needle(s) interacted with the loopers. I was somewhat intimidated by this new machine, but with a few classes, I became fearless, and so can you! It would be money well spent. Allow yourself to expand your abilities and skill beyond your present level.

The serger was so much fun that I made almost everything on it for the next couple of years, from lingerie and swimsuits to blue jeans. My sewing machine rarely got used – it was so neglected! I had already been using a zig-zag stitch with an overcast foot on my sewing machine to finish seams on woven fabrics – so many that I wore out three feet. So, when I learned how to use my first serger, I was in "sewing-heaven!"

Who would have thought, just a few years ago, that delicate-looking heirloom techniques could be done on the serger. Since discovering heirloom serger sewing, another world has opened up to me. I’ve found that French seams, pin tucks, joining flat or gathered lace to fabric, lace to entredeux, and lace to puffing can be a very fast way to produce a beautiful heirloom project in a fraction of the time it takes on a sewing machine. This allows a multiple-step sewing machine process to be substituted by a one-step serger process. 

With the capability of today’s sergers to gather, to stitch on beading, to make chain stitching and multiple-needle cover stitching, to add bias binding and to do shadow work, our options seem to be unlimited. Some of these stitches can be used in multiple ways as decorative stitch embellishment. And, let’s not forget the flatlock stitch - another way to embellish our projects. Crazy patch made with any combination of these stitches is yet another creative way to use our serger.

Serger crochet can add another dimension when finishing the edges on a project. I’ve used this technique on edges of unlined jackets, both with rayon and 12 weight cotton threads. Serger crochet can also be used to add a pretty and feminine edge to handkerchiefs, scarves and baby bonnets. I even saw a demonstration on doing serger smocking on a recent Martha Pullen Sewing Room program. Where will it all end?!

If you are having difficulty threading your serger, my recommendation is to take a class that teaches how to thread your particular serger, or get with a sewing buddy who may have a similar serger for help. Or, simply cut the threads above the tension dials and tie on new threads, then pull them through. Be sure to not pull the thread knot through your tension dials/discs to prevent damaging them.

One thing I did, once I learned how to thread my serger, was to practice over and over until I could almost thread it with my eyes closed. Be sure to test repeatedly anytime you re-thread your serger, or even tie on new threads, just as you would on your sewing machine. Another option is to join the Serger Club at Austin's Sewing Center or your local dealership, where you’ll be exposed to techniques that will expand your skill level. 

Of course, we will always need our wonderful sewing machines to accomplish most of our sewing tasks, but our serger can really help us make a more professional-looking project, no matter what it is. So, now that you "fear serging less," go ahead, venture into the creative serging world and explore the various possibilities. Play with your serger, experiment with its different functions, and have fun! 

Sandy Davis ©2010

Serger Shadow Work Pillow Finished!

My Serger Shadow work pillow is finished and now on display at Austin's Sewing Center!  What a fun project it was to make!  I loved stitching the dark pink cover stitching on the reverse side of the pillow top, then turning it over to see how it shadows through the white batiste fabric.  The piping went in easily with the piping foot attachment, and the ruffle went on just as easily using the same foot.  I even set in the zipper with the serger.  The only sewing machine work on this is to stitch together the ends of the ruffle.  Since I cut it so the ends were on the selvedge edge, I had no raw edges to finish.  How easy is that?  This class is scheduled for January 25.  I'll add some close up photos of the pillow in another post.

Heirloom Baby Boys Cap

The heirloom baby boys cap project is a class I am scheduled to teach at Austin's Sewing Center on January 18.  The blue stitching on both sides of the embroidered insertion is done with a cover stitch setting on my Babylock Evolve 8-thread serger.  I used 12 weight cotton thread.  The stitching on the brim is a chain stitch with the same thread.  The cap is lined, which shows through the blue cover stitching.

Tomorrow, I'll add a photo of my Shadow Work Pillow project.  Come back to see how pretty it turned out.

Tailored Boys Serger Bib with Rolled Edge Pintucks

This closeup shows the top of the bib, with the topstitching around the neck, the rolled edge pin tucks that attached the embroidered insertion to the strip of white batiste and the strip of blue linen.

Tailored Boys Serger Bib

This project has been a real challenge, that is, as far as the binding goes!  The bib has gone together really well up to the binding.  The instructions say to use the binder attachment to attach the binding in one step.  Apparently, it means a double-fold binder.  Since I only have a single-fold binder attachment, I have decided to change direction: to use my 3/4" bias binding pressing tool to make a separate binding, instead of using the attachment on my serger.  Then, attach the binding using the cover stitch.  After realizing the single-fold binding will be left with a raw edge that will have to be trimmed off, I didn't think that would be a finished-looking edge.  When I finish the bib with the newly made double-fold binding, I'll post a photo of it here.  This class is scheduled for January 4, at Austin's Sewing Center.

Should Serger Heirloom Sewing Become My Niche?

I have fallen in love with heirloom sewing and now that I've learned to do heirloom on my serger, I'm taking it to a new level.  Since becoming a staff teacher at Austin's Sewing Center in Louisville KY, I have scheduled several beginner classes on heirloom serger sewing.  Two are scheduled in December and three in January.

Serger heirloom sewing is a very easy way to accomplish a beautifully finished project as the serger "rolls and whips" the seam allowances all in one step!  Yes, you can work heirloom sewing techniques on a serger with confidence and accuracy, saving time and effort, with a lovely result.

As a Martha Pullen Licensed Serger Instructor, I am looking forward to sharing my serger and heirloom skills with the eager sewing student who is looking for more creativity in his or her sewing endeavors.