Saturday, September 27, 2014

Sew What Community Sewing Group September Project: Bias-Wrapped Jacket

Two days ago, our sewing group met for the September class to start a jacket project, "Bias-Wrapped Jacket," which is also called a "Fat Quarter Jacket."   With seven in attendance, and eventually three husbands stopping in to see what we do, we had a very good class!

This Bias-Wrapped Jacket is made in 100% cotton fabrics, with horse and horseshoe motifs and a plaid that color-coordinates with the prints.  I usually wear this jacket around Kentucky Derby time.  (I guess you know that since I live in Kentucky, we have a lot of Derby activities going on from Mid-April up to race day on the 1st Saturday of May!)

These jackets are so comfortable and easy to make, without much fitting necessary.  I have made several out of different types of fabrics, so they are truly versatile!

On this Derby jacket, bias binding was used for all of the edge finishes.  The plaid was used for the front/neck bindings and a wider bias band was used for the lower edge and cuffs.  I just realized the cuffs don't show up very well in this photo, but they are cut wide enough so they can be turned up on themselves.  Because they are cut on the bias, they turn nicely.

This Bias-Wrapped Jacket is made from rayon fabrics, which drapes so pretty.  I put a serger edge all around, using my Babylock self-threading serger.  It is a dream, by the way!

The stitch is called the Wave Stitch.  Two colors, black & white, were used on the front/neck edges and red/white were used on the lower and sleeve edges.  That makes the edges look like they have a separate trim sewn on.  The thread is a 40-weight rayon and seems to be holding up very well, even with all the wear I'm giving it.

This one is also very comfortable to wear and is easy-care.  I just wash it on gentle in cold water and hang to dry, which is how I wash most of our clothes.  I rarely use our dryer!  Maybe only two - three times a year.

This jacket is made from a suede-finished, hand-dyed, 100% cotton.  From a distance it looks like real suede cloth.  I put serger crochet on all the edges to finish it, using 12-weight cotton variegated thread.  The ruffle effect is quite nice, I think.  I do have to be a little cautious when wearing this jacket because of the loopy crochet edging, as it sometimes gets snagged.  But, when I take it off, the snags are easily pulled through with a tool called a "knit fixer," so I don't let that stop me from wearing it.

With all the muted colors, this jacket can be worn with many different outfits, so it's also very versatile.

This Bias-Wrapped Jacket is my favorite, but is the most delicate!  It's made of a lacy knit fabric that I just had to have when I first saw it, but had no idea what I'd do with it.  (Maybe you can relate to that?!)

Again, I put serger crochet on all the edges, but with this one the crochet edging is wider.  I believe it's eleven rows wide.  If you look closely at the bottom of the jacket, you'll see threads hanging down.  Well, that's where the ruffle snagged while wearing.  I really, really have to be careful when I wear this one!  But, it's good for dressy occasions and goes with almost everything in my color palette.

The flower is from Hope Yoder's Layered Flower In-The-Hoop design made from 100% cotton fabrics.  The center is an embroidered, covered button (flatback) from Hope's Borders and Frames design for her Button-Ups system.  I just glued it onto the fabric and then sewed a pinback onto the back side so I can switch it around to other garments.

I have also made two of these jackets for my mother out of upholstery fabric.  I don't have photos of them, but will take some and add them to a later post.  She loves wearing both of them and gets lots of compliments on both.  She says they really are warm.  We haven't tried to wash either of them, yet; but I'm going to try washing one of them, after washing some scraps and having success.  The other one has drapery trim on all the edges, so it will definitely have to be dry-cleaned.

All of these jackets were made on my serger, with some of the trims/bias bindings sewn on with a sewing machine.  There really is no reason this jacket cannot be made on a conventional sewing machine, so that's the way I taught it at our Sew What group this month.  When we have some more finished jackets, hopefully next month, I'll post photos of them.  This project is one of the more challenging projects we've worked on in our monthly group, so I'm hoping those who are making it are having success!

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Sandy's Sanity-Saving Sewing Snippets - #2 Tips for Purchasing a Sewing Machine

 Do you have your sewing machine yet?  Here are some tips on how to go about purchasing your first sewing machine:
  1. Shop for the best machine you can afford. 
  2. Shop various sewing machine dealers in your area who carry brands different from each other so you can compare features.  Employees are trained on how to demonstrate the machine in their store.  
  3. Don't be shy about asking if you may test-drive the machine that interests you.  Think of it as buying a vehicle.  You wouldn't buy a vehicle without a test-drive, now would you?
  4. Think about your needs, what your sewing goals are.  Do you just need to do some mending once in a while, do you want to try sewing to find out if it's something you really want to spend time and money doing, or do you know for sure that you want to learn sewing to make well-fitting garments & to get the fabrics, colors & styles you want?  
  5. I truly DO NOT recommend purchasing a sewing machine from the "big box" stores!  Think about who is going to teach you how to use it, who will fix it if it breaks down, where will you get accessories that will fit your machine when the time comes?  And, on & on!
There are many valid reasons for learning to sew, and there are many kinds of sewing machines on today's market.  Be aware that sewing machine dealers not only have great brands of machines, from very basic to very high-end, they will give you great customer service with their service department, new-owner training, private lessons, group classes and the latest in sewing techniques & technology - and especially their fully-trained employees and up-to-the-minute sewing knowledge!

Check out the dealer's class offerings for a good look at what's being taught in that store by checking their website and getting on their mailing list.  Some classes are offered only one time over the course of a few years, others are offered more regularly.  Some dealers have nationally-known teachers who teach regularly in their store, and some teachers hold series of classes/clubs that might interest you.  Take advantage of the class offerings - you'll find new friends who share a passion of sewing and a whole new network of friendships can develop!

In a future post in this series, I'll talk about what should go into a beginner's sewing kit.  Thank you for reading this and I hope you're enjoying this series!

"Be creative and learn to sew!"

Saturday, September 6, 2014

Sandy's Sanity-Saving Sewing Snippets - #1 Sew Flat

This is the first of a new feature I'd like to start of posting some tips for beginner sewists, as well as experienced sewists, where I'll share ideas gleaned from my years of sewing experience and teaching on how to sew faster, easier, and better.  I'm naming this series of bi-weekly (approximately) posts, "Sandy's Sanity-Saving Sewing Snippets."  I hope you enjoy the posts and learn some new information from them.  Please feel free to leave a comment on something you'd like to see here pertaining to sewing faster, easier and better.

Today, I worked with a beginning sewing student on a project.  The subject of sewing-in-the-flat came up.  What I mean by this is, sew together hard-to-access parts of your sewing project while it's still flat.  For example, it's easier to sew in sleeves before the underarm seams and side seams are stitched, or it's easier to install a zipper before sewing any seams.  Once the project has taken shape, some areas are more difficult to access.  Make your sewing easier to do, not harder.  You'll have more fun while completing your projects in less time.

As an additional tip, please go to this post to see a tutorial on how to clean and maintain your sewing machine.  This tutorial is especially important for all of you beginning and returning sewists out there!

Please let me know how I can answer your basic sewing questions!

Be creative - learn to sew,