How to Keep our Sewing Machines Clean and Running Smoothly

At the January Sew What! community sewing group, which I teach at my local public library, I taught a lesson on how to keep our sewing machines clean.  Everyone brought their machines and some cleaning/maintenance tools.  These are some photos I took of my own machine as I cleaned it, showing the steps that I followed.

I took the throat plate off, took out the needle, unscrewed the presser foot ankle and removed it along with the presser foot.  I opened the bobbin assembly area door and took out the bobbin case.  Next, I lowered the feed teeth so I could clean out any lint and dust that had accumulated in that area.

I raised the presser foot and turned the tension dial to zero.  A folded piece of fine muslin can be slid from top to bottom in between the tension discs to clean out any dust/lint (suggested by Threads Magazine), or a length of small gauge crochet thread can be run through the tension discs in the same manner.  The crochet thread is larger than regular sewing thread and it will remove hunks of dust/lint from the tension disc area.  This downward  movement allows the dust/lint to be pulled out to the bottom of the disc assembly, and not push it back into the area.  When re-threading your machine, after cleaning is completed, remember to re-set the tension dial to an appropriate setting for your next project.

TIP:  When changing thread, cut it above the tension disc assembly then pull it out through the needle area to remove it, thereby pulling out any accumulation of dust/lint in that area (and not pulling it back up into the tension discs). 

Next, I dipped the machine cleaning brush into some rubbing alcohol,and squeezed out the excess.  Alcohol makes the brush attract dust/lint better and allows me to pull clumps of it out of the machine.

 This shows how easy it is to clean out the feed teeth area.  Also, on my machine, I hold my brush on the top of the bobbin hook race assembly (seen above), while I turn the handwheel to clean off that area.

 The presser bar needs attention, too!  Sometimes, lint/dust can accumulate in this area.  It usually won't affect the machine's ability to stitch properly, but just for the principle of it I like to clean this area.

After removing the bobbin from its case, I run the cleaning brush around the inside of the bobbin case to make sure it's dust free.  On some machines, the hook assembly can be removed.  Check your instruction manual for details on how this is done.  I can't remove mine, but on many machines it is removable.

If you have a special attachment that fits on your vacuum cleaner, you can use it to vacuum out all of the dust and lint inside your machine.  You know, the kind that is used for cleaning computer keyboards.  It has two sizes of small brush extensions and a small crevice extension.  I have found that this attachment makes cleaning my machine so much easier, and it does a more thorough job.  This is a good time to vacuum every area that is exposed.  I like to vacuum-dust the outside of my machine, also.  Oh, and don't forget, vacuum-dust the foot pedal.  Dust can accumulate inside it, as well, and can affect how it operates.

I DO NOT recommend using a product called "canned air" to blow dust/lint out of sewing machines.  I don't like that it could blow everything further into the machine, making it nearly impossible to remove.  NEVER, never blow your breath into your machine, for any reason!  You're blowing moisture into the machine which can cause corrosion or rusting.  Not good!

 At this point, I add a single drop of sewing machine oil to the bobbin hook race area where the metal parts move against each other.  (I don't add oil more frequently than once a year, unless I've been using my machine for long periods of time.)  Do not add more than one drop of oil because it can gum up the area over time.  Actually, I like to just take a paper towel or a soft piece of muslin to wipe out any excess oil so there won't be too much, which can cause a gumming problem later.

If your hook race assembly can be removed, wipe it off with the soft cloth that has a tiny drop of oil on it.  Use a good quality sewing machine oil, not household oil.  Sewing machine oil is a specially formulated, petroleum-based oil made for sewing machines and is a light oil.  Household oil is a heavier oil.  Some oils can actually cause corrosion and build-up inside the machine.  Remember, less is more (in this case)!

Some older machines have holes in the throat plate area where a drop of oil can be placed, but most newer machines do not have this option.  After the machine is completely cleaned and put back together, but before threading the top thread, run it at top speed for about a minute to distribute the oil evenly in the bobbin assembly. 

Unless your machine instruction manual specifically tells you NOT to oil your machine, you can give it ONE drop of oil in the bobbin area.  My machine had been sounding a little loud until I put in the oil.  Now, it sounds much more quiet and has a smooth-running sound.

Here, the bobbin has been placed back in its case, then I'm replacing the bobbin case in its proper position.  If you have removed your hook race assembly, check your manual for instructions on how to replace it.  It has to go back into the machine in a certain sequence, and it fits together very specifically.

I always make sure the bobbin case is seated properly so it won't vibrate out of its position.  The black lever in the center, when released back to be flat against the bobbin case, locks the bobbin into place.  (This is the lever that is pulled forward to pull the bobbin case out of the machine, on a front loading bobbin.)  If your machine has a drop-in bobbin, check your manual for removal instructions.  Some can be removed, others cannot.

 Next, I have replaced the needle, making sure the flat side of the shaft is placed toward the back of the machine.  Some older model machines will require the flat side of the needle be placed to the right side, or the left side.  Also, make sure the needle is shoved all the way up into the opening before tightening the needle screw.

Make sure the needle screw is tightened so the needle won't fall out!  I hate to admit it, but I've had a needle, or two, fall out.  It's kind of scary when that happens, because the needle point could get caught in the feed teeth and damage the machine or bend or break the needle.  That can cause some real trouble!

TIP: Never, never sew over pins!!!!!!  The needle could strike a pin and break!  The needle fragments can fly into your eye, or can damage your sewing machine.  Metal shavings can accumulate in the bobbin area and can cause problems.  Sewing over pins can dull the point of the needle or cause a burr, shortening its life and causing faulty stitch formation.  Just get out of the habit of sewing over pins, if you have that habit, please!

Be sure to raise the feed teeth back into the sewing position.  I can't tell you how many times I have forgotten to raise my feed teeth!  The sewing machine will not sew forward unless the feed teeth are in the up position.

If you follow the steps I've suggested to clean and maintain your sewing machine after every six to eight hours of sewing, or even after each project, you'll have fewer issues with your machine, fewer stitch problems and a much smoother-running sewing machine.  Form a new habit and do a quick cleaning with your brush before starting every new project.

The six to eight hour rule of thumb is good to follow for changing the needle, as well.  Don't wait until your needle gets so dull that it prevents good stitch formation, or when your needle gets bent or gets a burr on it.  Purchase several packs of needles when notions are on sale at your local dealership or fabric store, so you'll have a supply on hand.

My recommendation is to keep your machine(s) covered when not in use.  I use vintage pillow cases that have pretty embroidery on them to just place over my sewing machines and my serger.  They don't really "fit" onto the machines, so I just lay them over the top of the machines.  It works!

Before beginning a cleaning session, check your machine instruction manual for specific instructions on how to take everything apart, and if/where to oil your machine.  Keep in mind that too much oil can spread into the wiring of a sewing machine, which will cause a new set of problems.  So, be cautious when oiling!

Cleaning your serger is similar to what I've described here.  I especially like to use my vacuum attachment to pull out all of the dust/lint from around the loopers and the feed teeth areas.  It's fast and works very well!

Threads Magazine recommends taking your machine to your dealership or authorized mechanic every two years for a tune-up.  My experience has been that by keeping my machine clean, as outlined here, it cuts down on the number of times I have to take my machine in for tune-ups.

I hope you have enjoyed this mini-lesson on machine cleaning.  I love hearing the smooth, "purring" sound of my machine when it's thoroughly clean - kind of like being able to see clearly through a freshly washed window on a sunny day!

Please leave me a comment, below, if you have any questions, or to tell me if this tutorial is not understandable.  Thank you!

Comfort Caps and Baby Blankets

Our Master Clothing Workday was a great success today!  There were 11 or 12 volunteers who made 58 comfort caps (chemo caps) and 10 baby blankets for our community service sewing project.  We had an assembly line going.  Some cut out caps, some sewed caps, some serged caps.  I serged a 3-thread balanced stitch around the outer edge and some tied off the ends of the thread chains and hid them in the seam.  We spent about 4 hours completing our projects, while visiting with each other, catching up on our activities since our November training.

We had a very nice lunch, then grouped together for our "show and tell" session, presenting and discussing projects we made in our individual classes at training and some other projects we've worked on since we were together last.

Our group is made up of wonderfully talented, experienced and qualified volunteers.  Together, we log an enormous number of volunteer hours teaching others in our communities to sew.  Some of our volunteers work with children through the 4-H program and others work with adults.  We all have a love of sewing and teaching others the skills we've acquired, and thoroughly enjoy our work with the Master Clothing Volunteer program.

I plan to give these two caps to a high school classmate who was recently diagnosed with colon cancer and has been undergoing chemo treatments.  I hope she likes them and they give her some comfort.

Master Clothing Volunteer Work Day

Tomorrow is our semi-annual Master Clothing Volunteer work day at the Shelby County Cooperative Extension Service Office.  We'll be working on two community service projects: comfort caps and baby blankets.  This is always a fun time for us volunteers.  We get together to make projects for community service, we learn from each other by showing the projects that we made at our annual fall training in Jabez, KY, sharing tips and techniques, we talk and laugh and give each other ideas for more projects to teach in our individual communities, we make a plan of work for the coming year, and we eat!   It's always a fun day.

We'll meet again in June to recap our year since the previous June, and to complete our reports of the number of volunteer hours we've accumulated in that span of time.  We get inspiration from each other for projects to teach to eager students in our own communities and for sewing workshops we may want to provide.  We've become a close-knit group of like-minded sewists, who love sharing our craft with others!

I will begin 2011 with my community sewing group (Sew What?), at the Jeffersontown Public Library on the 4th Thursday of January, with a lesson on how to clean and maintain our sewing machines and sergers.  In a class at our volunteer training last fall, I learned some valuable tips on machine cleaning and maintenance that I didn't know before.  This is how we share our knowledge with our communities: learning new things at our annual training, then teaching it in our local areas in free classes.  That's what Cooperative Extension is all about!

Heirloom Communion Dresses

Today, my husband and I went to two of our local malls to check out prices of items I'm thinking about making and selling on Etsy and/or Ebay.  When we walked into an upscale department store, we saw a display of beautiful, white, frilly, gorgeous communion dresses, complete with veils, gloves and other accessories. 

I had so much fun examining the inner workings of the dresses, how the linings were put in, how the crinolines were attached, how the embellishments were applied, touching and feeling the scrumptious fabrics, and seeing what kind of prices were on them.  The saleslady asked me two different times if she could help me!

It must be the time of year when first communion ceremonies are being scheduled.  If there is anyone out there who is making custom childrens garments, this might be an opportunity you'd want to consider pursuing!  Hmmm...maybe I should consider it, myself!

Back to Basics, from Ch. 7 in Chicago

I have always sewn to save money.  Now, it seems, a lot of people (young?) are looking at sewing as a way to save money, as well as to get good-fitting garments.  Check out this short video for some inspiration. Copy and paste the following link into your browser to watch the video.

http://abclocal.go.com/wls/video?id=7679192

Steps to Finishing the Serger Cover Stitch Shadow Work Heirloom Pillow

This is what the pillow looks like after the cover stitch is stitched on the wrong side of the pillow top.  A dark thread is used so it shows through (shadows) to the right side.

The pillow top section is turned to the right side.  See how the dark thread in the cover stitch shows through?  That is shadowing at its best!

Next, the ruffle strip edge is serged with a rolled edge using rayon thread.  Then, the opposite edge of the ruffle is gathered in preparation for applying it to the pillow.

Can a zipper be inserted with a serger?  Absolutely!  This is what the zipper looks like when stitched by the serger.  It really is an easy way to insert a zipper!

 The right side of the serger zipper application.  It is an exposed zipper application, but it's still pretty.

Here, the piping strip is applied to the edge of the pillow top.  Can you see how the groove in the piping foot glides over the hump of the piping?  This foot makes applying piping by serger so very easy!

After the piping is serged onto the pillow top, the ruffle and the pillow back are layered onto the pillow top, then all layers are serged together.  At this point, I have to admit, pinning the layers together is necessary.  Just remember to place the pins parallel to the edge of the fabric.  The ruffle layer has to be contained along the straight edge of the pillow layers so it lays properly.

All layers are serged together.  Using the piping foot, place the groove of the foot over the hump of the piping just like it was done to apply the piping to the first layer of the pillow.

This close up photo shows how all the components have come together in the finished pillow: the rolled edge on the ruffle, the pink checked piping strip, and the cover stitch shadowing through.  This project would make a fabulous gift for someone, don't you think?

Serger Shadow Work Pillow Finished!

My Serger Shadow work pillow is finished and now on display at Austin's Sewing Center!  What a fun project it was to make!  I loved stitching the dark pink cover stitching on the reverse side of the pillow top, then turning it over to see how it shadows through the white batiste fabric.  The piping went in easily with the piping foot attachment, and the ruffle went on just as easily using the same foot.  I even set in the zipper with the serger.  The only sewing machine work on this is to stitch together the ends of the ruffle.  Since I cut it so the ends were on the selvedge edge, I had no raw edges to finish.  How easy is that?  This class is scheduled for January 25.  I'll add some close up photos of the pillow in another post.